16 J I M C A R R O L L saddle was agonizing and unpleasant. As we reached the wadi, I saw low-lying rock cliffs surrounding it. Had the little stream once been a great river? The wadi still contained gently flowing, clear water from the spring rains, and we dismounted. The oth- ers washed and drank. I stood by my camel. Salman, Suhayb and the other men gloried in the scene but I vowed not to repeat such a journey.